A megalithic culture living to the rhythms of sacred ceremonies
IN COLLABORATION WITH CAP KAROSO
Unveiling the rich tapestry of the traditional Sumbanese Marapu culture involves exploring their awe-inspiring megalithic tombs, intricately designed peaked houses, and the profound sacred ceremonies that have been passed down through generations. It's fascinating to witness the deep connection these people have nurtured with the natural world surrounding them, which has stood the test of time and continues to thrive in harmony with their environment.
SUMBA
As you journey across the island, fleeting scenes of rural life unfold before your eyes: vibrant fields of maize, cassava and cashew trees blur past your window and occasional sights of buffalo's taking a mudbath by the riverbank. Sumba Island, nestled in the Indonesian archipelago, has earned the moniker "Sandalwood Island" due to its abundant fragrant sandalwood trees. The island's history is enriched by a thriving sandalwood trade, with its peak witnessed during the 16th and 17th centuries. Nowadays the trees are almost all gone and the local tribes make their living with fishing & farming.
MARAPU CULTURE
Sumba is known for its rich culture and the Marapu religion, an ancient animist belief in ancestral spirits. The word "Marapu" literally means "the highly respected". Marapu is fostering peaceful connections between individuals and the revered ancestral spirits, known as the Ina Ama (female/male). While earthly existence is passing, the Ina Ama continues indefinitely in the ethereal realm of Prai Marapu, otherwise referred to as Marapu Heaven.
The first ancestors, known as Marapu ‘‘Ratu’’ in Sumba's myths, are revered as deities who serve as intermediaries between humans and the divine. According to geneticists, their presence on the northern coast dates back to around during Neolithic times. Besides honouring these ancestral spirits, they also show reverence to Mawulu Tau-Majii Tau (God) as the ultimate life and human creator. God is perceived as a distant entity, uninvolved in earthly affairs, and is regarded as an abstract concept that instills a sense of awe and wonder in the hearts of believers while guiding them through their cultural practices and rituals.
IKAT WEAVING
The Marapu culture is highly regarded for its exquisite handicrafts. One of their most revered traditions is the ancient art of Ikat weaving, rooted in Sumba's rich mythology. Translating to "tie" or "bind" in the local language, Ikat involves a carefully resist-dyeing technique applied to cotton yarns before they are arranged on a loom. The weaving process, which incorporates complex designs and patterns, is both laborious and time-consuming, spanning two to three months for standard pieces and potentially up to a year for larger creations. This detailed craft demands the collaborative efforts of three to ten skilled craftsmen and encompasses 42 intricate stages, from raw material sourcing and cotton preparation to yarn spinning, dyeing, weaving, pattern creation, and the finishing touches known as "Wari Rumata."
Each complicated Sumbanese Ikat weave encapsulates the essence of Sumba's rich natural heritage. Crafted solely from organic materials sourced on the island, the cotton is carefully gathered from local fields, while the vibrant hues derive from a harmonious blend of leaves and roots including the renowned indigo plants and earthy noni roots.
ALANG ALANG
Traditional homes named Ama Mbatangu in Sumbanese are typically placed around the megalithic ancient tombs and areas for special events likes sacrifices & ritual dances. Sometimes, these places have altars or temples to protect important cultural items for the future. Consisting three levels, there is a lower level below the house for livestock, a middle level on the ground floor for people and everyday activity, and a top level in the high-pitched roof where the Marapu reside. This top level is the sacred space and is, therefore, the most important feature of the house. Reaching towards the spirit world — the higher the roof, the closer one is to God — it is where sacred heirlooms, ancestral artefacts, and offerings addressed to the ancestors are placed. Only elderly men can come in, and not often.
The shape of the thatched Alang-alang roof is also loaded with meaning, representing the female/male duality: the peak is male and the skirt is female. The female/male duality continues therefore into the house itself where the square windowless space is organised around four symbolically carved pillars. In the masculine right-hand side, the front-right pillar marks the site of rituals while the back-right pillar marks the area for butchering and dividing the meat of sacrificed animals. In the feminine left-hand side, the front-left pillar is for preparing rice, dining, and sleeping, and the back-left pillar is for all activity regarding the animals. Each side of the house has its own access, with the door at the front on the right reserved for the men, and the door at the rear on the left reserved for the women. Both lead to separate external platforms. A cooking fire is located at the centre of the house, and buffalo horns, or similar, can decorate the walls as reminders of past sacrifice and wealth.
THE BUFFALO
In Sumbanese culture, a buffalo stand as the Island’s primary symbol of social standing and prestige. The people of Sumba dedicate their lifetimes to attaining and cherishing these respected beings with great devotion. Each buffalo holds a considerable value, often worth thousands of pounds – a sum equivalent to around three years worth of earnings for the average local resident. Beyond mere possessions, these majestic creatures also serve as a form of indigenous currency, facilitating complex exchanges that solidify bonds within communities. Moreover, in Sumba's intricate societal cloths, the revered status of the Buffalo intertwines closely with matters of mortality.
The ritualistic sacrifice of buffaloes lies at the heart of numerous Marapu ceremonies. Despite the significant financial burden on families, buffaloes play a crucial role in elaborate funeral rites, where adorned animals are offered as sacrifices to secure an eternal afterlife for the departed, pay homage to ancestors, and safeguard the prosperity of future generations.
A FINAL NOTE
What truly resonated with us during our visit to the nearby village was the exceptional effort our guides put in to ensure we fully experienced the local culture and environment. The Marapu culture, with its remarkable strength and beauty, bears witness to the raw authenticity of their way of life. Living in close communities, where individuals uphold reverence for the elderly and mutual regard for one another, is a concept that appears to be lacking in the western societies nowadays. The profound connection of this culture to the land stands out as one of the most enduring and powerful aspects of their cultural preservation and existence.
Written by Daisy Sophia
This experience was part of our itinerary during our stay at Cap Karoso
